Forbidden Planet C-57D

Star Trek and Star Wars, Monsters and Babes. Talk about your fantastic models!

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Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 5:17 pm
PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 7:35 pm
I am in the process of building a Polar Lights C-57D saucer but modified and based on the plans that were printed by the Noron Group (plans available on Ebay). The interior will probably end up being 95% scratch built and have 3 full decks. I'm about 50% finished but started wondering if anyone else has tried this. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

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Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 10:35 pm
Location: here right now,there later
PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 8:07 pm
the_forbidden_planet@yahoogroups.com

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Joined: Sun Apr 30, 2006 11:24 pm
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 8:51 pm
Hi Altair,

I have rebuilt my C57D interior using a copy of the studio plans that were published sometime ago. Phil Lublin sent me a scan of them a few years ago, thanks again Phil. Phils new interior was on Cults old site in the On the Bench section, but the link no longer works.

I rebuilt the top and bottom decks from scratch using the kit parts where ever I could. eg equipment racks, bunks, astrogator etc.
The floor and walls where a very easy build. I modified the bunks to look like they had a real pillow and some blankets and rebuilt their mounting frames. I made new screens that sit infront of the deacceleration area and a nice curved couch for the galley. A few fibre optics where used for point light sources like the three "portholes" on the doors and some lights on the astrogator.
I recast the wall control panels in clear resin so I could put an LED in behind them. I painted the opaque surfaces and tinted the lights and dials with transparent paint. I put a transparency of a galaxy photo behind the big viewscreen. It all lights up like a Christmass tree.
I also used tiny surface mount white LED's around the ceilings to light up the interior as it all gets a bit gloomy when the decks are assembled on top of each other

As with many things I have not completed it yet. The interior is all done.
I am just waiting for the right moment to finish the exterior.
Alien

We are not going to be great.
We are not going to be amazing.
We are going to be amazingly amazing!

Busy Modeler
Posts: 86
Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 5:17 pm
PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 11:40 pm
Thanks for the reply, Alien. Your model concept sounds very interesting. Would you mind sharing some photo's of your model? I could send you some photo's of mine as well so we can compare notes. I have no way to post mine here so you could email yours to me at altair4@cebridge.net and I will respond with some of mine.

Thanks again,
Altair4

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Joined: Sat Apr 15, 2006 1:55 pm
Location: Winnipeg, MB CANADA
PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 12:16 am
My situation is the opposite of Alien's. I've got the exterior parts all painted but my interior is incomplete. I built the interior, painted it...then decided I didn't like it! So I'm hemming and hawing over a new paint job.

But I did a nice job on filling the exterior seams and doing the paint. Mind you, I don't even want to tell you how old this photo is:


Image


BTW, Altair4, I'm using a free image hosting service that requires no registration. Let me know if you want the details. It's simple to use.

Busy Modeler
Posts: 86
Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 5:17 pm
PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 12:43 am
Brent,

That exterior looks fantastic! I haven't gone beyond reenforcing mine and modifying it to accommodate the revised interior but I hope my finished exterior comes out even slightly as good as yours. Yes, please do provide me with the info on free photo posting.

Thanks,
Altair4

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Joined: Sat Apr 15, 2006 1:55 pm
Location: Winnipeg, MB CANADA
PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 1:27 am
I use usually use imageshack when I want to post a photo on a forum. I also have a photobucket account but imageshack is a nice, quick and simple way to do things.

But, first things first, keep the photo to a reasonable size. Steve has had trouble in the past with people posting multiple huge photos and it mucks up the system. And some poor schlubs like me are still on dial up so a load of 2MB photos would be useless. That photo I posted is about 580 pixels wide which is good for an average "in progress" kind of picture. If there is a lot of detail, or if it's the official, high quality portrait, I'll go to 720 pixels wide. And keep an eye on the file size. Under 100Kb is what I aim for most of the time. Again, if it's a very detailed photo, you can go higher but if you get near 200kb, it's probably larger than you need on a forum.

If you have something like Adobe Photoshop Elements, use a low quality setting. A lot of computers have Microsoft Picture it! which does a good job of automatically making small files when you resize an image. Bottom line, just try to avoid monster size pictures or you might end up glitching your own thread.

That being said, once you have a nicely sized photo on your computer, go here:

http://www.imageshack.us/


You don't have to register...don't even have to tell them who you are.

1) Click the "Browse" button. That will bring up a window where you can find the image file on your computer.

2) Double click on the image file you want to upload.

3) Click the "Host it!" button. Give the image time to upload.

4) You will see a list of links to you image. One of those links will say "Hot link for forums (1)" . That's what you want. Just copy that link.

5) Paste the copied link into your message here. Before you submit your reply, use the "Preview" button. If your image appears when you use the preview button, it will appear when you submit yout message.

Busy Modeler
Posts: 639
Joined: Sat Apr 15, 2006 1:55 pm
Location: Winnipeg, MB CANADA
PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 1:50 am
Just tested it using the link in my previous message. From the time I click the link until I pasted the picture in this message was about 70 seconds.

This is a picture of the lower part of the saucer being fitted to a diorama base. The central landing post is actually bolted to the base. I epoxied a block of wood into it and drove a screw into it through the underside of the base. That will keep things properly positioned when it's all finished.


Image

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Posts: 234
Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 10:35 pm
Location: here right now,there later
PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 5:50 am
i noticed the outer edge of the saucer seems to rotate/spin as the saucer landed, any one see that?

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Location: SW. Michigan
PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 10:12 am
Anyone else notice that the "Robby" included with the kit is too big for the interior? Place the astrogator on a level surface and set the robot next to it and you can clearly see it.

I did some scale calculation with the figure and make him out to be roughly 1/56th scale. Also, if you place some 1/72 scale figures on the landing leg egress stairs, they look way too small but it you put the Robby figure there it looks perfect...

I've rescaled the studio blueprints at 1/56 to see if it can possibly fit into the provided interior. initial eyeballing says no but I'm working on it. If worse comes to worse, I'll just do the interior at 1/72 and the exterior at 1/56. It wouldn't be the first time this has been necessary.

There's actually a lot of discrepancies on this kit, the most glaring of which is the upper conning blister. I believe it was modeled after the matte paintings for the full sized set rather than the filming miniature. As a result it doesn't look very good at any angle but a straight profile. I'm working on lathing a new one with the dimensions of the filming miniature. It's a lot of work but I think the kit is worth it.

Fiver
Culpa Non In Astra Existat Sed In Nobis Ipsis
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